Day 5, Crash landing!

Early start on perfectly smooth water. They crossed to right bank and almost immediately back to left bank — shortcutting long river bends.

After much discussion Dick and April settled on a new regime: When the winds come up in early afternoon and paddling is difficult, they plan to stop for a long, big meal — their dinner. Snack lunch in the canoe during the calm mornings, and eat another snack lunch (usually granola, jerky, cheese, dried fruit and nuts). in the afternoon after the winds die. They will make camp late (Dick argued for 2200, April for 2100 to get sleep for an early start) by simply pitching the tent and crawling in. So, at day's end, when they are tired, they can establish camp quickly and easily. This new way, their big meal will occur in the middle of the day when they are hungry. Before, Dick was too tired to eat at day's end.

The fireplace Dick built.

Acting upon their new plan, they stopped for 'dinner,' at 1220, when the winds came up. Dick built a windshield fireplace against a boulder, then a brisk fire, which heated the coffee pot (set in the fire) in less than ten minutes. While the pot came to a boil, April bathed in the river, and washed clothes. Felt wonderful; no bugs. They drank three or four cups of tea, then ate dinner. The stop was leisurely, with winds up most of the time. They were back on the river at 1600, when the winds were down. Dick could not get a GPS reading because of thick, black, low clouds.

Jean Marie village.

They paddled past a scattering of similar one-story dwellings along the left bank — Jean Marie River village — where about a hundred Indians live. The Dene Indians call their village "Tthets'ehk'edeli," meaning "water running over clay." The tiny town nestles beside the dark-brown Jean Marie River, where it empties into the blue-gray Mackenzie. In 1935, Dene families had moved there, starting the town to regain the old way of life. The men fish, hunt moose and trap to make a living.

Afternoon thunderstorms crowded the skies, so Dick and April hugged the shoreline. A motorboat headed out of Jean Marie, passed them, and puttered downstream. April waved. A man with his navy cap pulled down low against the sun’s rays waved back. He was the first sign of humans the pair had seen since they had launched on their great adventure, five days ago.

They saw an Arctic loon paddle by, and heard the rising wail of another loon. An eerie sound.

Without their GPS noon sighting, they were somewhat lost. Worst, when the Mackenzie turned north, another large river entered the Mackenzie. The river was not on their map! Also, they encountered three large islands — not on the map. That did it; they lost faith in the map, but needed to pick one of the two large rivers. Which one was the Mackenzie? They quit paddling, and let the river decide. The stronger Mackenzie current swept them down the Mackenzie.

The current picked up. Steep banks. The wind behind them.

"Man, we’re moving!" April shouted, momentarily forgetting fatigue in the joy of speed.

They spotted a (barely) feasible campsite and figured they better grab it, because steep banks don't offer many choices. This was their first landing in swift water.

The plan was for April to turn the canoe neatly upstream to slow the craft, then they paddle sideways to shore with a few deft strokes, Dick jump out and tie the canoe to a rock. But the current was too fast for them.

"What happened?" Yelled April, after the first failed attempt.

"Not sure," Dick said.

They made the next landing by nosing directly into shore, as they were used to doing. Dick, shoeless, hopped out. The rocks were large, slippery, and torture on bare feet. Hanging onto the bow rope, Dick flailed, teetering on big rocks, trying to get his legs to function again after so many hours sitting in a canoe.

April, still in the canoe, could see herself careening alone down the Mackenzie. And Dick marooned without supplies --- even boots! "Don’t let go of the rope!" April wildly sunk a paddle down. she wedged it among some rocks, and held on for dear life.

Recovering his balance and moving at top speed, Dick wrapped the bow rope around a shore-side rock. They and the canoe were safe.

Miles traveled: 25 (40 km)
Position at end of day: N 61-24-32, W 120-09-53 (determined the next morning)